Duration
4 hours
Group size
Up to 10
Language
English, Arabic
Pickup at 5am from Sweimeh or anywhere on the Dead Sea road, then an hour south to Ghor Haditha, where the ground is falling in. As the sea drops, roughly a metre a year, fresh groundwater dissolves the buried salt layer under the Lisan marl and the surface collapses without warning. There are more than six thousand of these holes now. Some are two metres across; some would swallow a bus. We walk about four kilometres on a route Odeh has checked that week, past a farm track that ended in 2011 and a stand of dead tamarisk still upright in the salt. This walk has real rules. Single file, behind the guide, and nobody wanders off for a photograph, because the crust that looks solid is the part that fails. Under-twelves cannot come. There are no toilets for the first two hours and no shade at all. We start at first light because by nine it is over 35C down here and the walk stops being interesting. You will be back at your hotel by ten, dusty, and ready to sleep through the middle of the day, which is the correct use of a Dead Sea afternoon.
We run wellness at 430 metres below sea level, which is a strange address for anything. The air is heavy with oxygen and bromide, the water holds you up whether you want it to or not, and the black mud on our stretch of shore is the same stuff that got exported to Egypt two thousand years ago. There are four of us: two therapists trained in Amman, a yoga teacher from Sweimeh, and Odeh, who has watched this shoreline retreat about thirty metres since he started guiding here. We don't promise transformation. We promise mud dug the same week, clean freshwater showers, cold drinking water, and someone who will tell you plainly when it is too hot to be outside.
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