Two hours of your morning goes on land: paperwork, a health questionnaire, then a briefing in waist-deep water where you practise three things - clearing your mask, finding a lost regulator, equalising your ears - until they stop feeling strange. Then we walk in from the beach at Black Rock and follow the reef slope down to twelve metres. One instructor per two guests, a hand on your BCD strap for the first ten minutes, off it once you settle. What you actually see: lionfish parked under table corals, a resident moray at eight metres who has been in the same crack for years, clouds of anthias, and on a good day a hawksbill turtle grazing. The honest part: roughly one in ten people cannot equalise on the first attempt. If that is you we surface, try again shallower, and if it still will not clear we call the dive - and the Marine Park fee we have already paid to the gate does not come back. A head cold or blocked sinuses is almost always the culprit, so if you are congested this week, book a later day rather than gambling on it.
We run one boat and two pickups out of the marina in Aqaba, and between us we have been diving this coast since the Cedar Pride still had paint on her. Three of us grew up here; two came for a season in 2011 and never left. We are a PADI centre, which mostly means our compressor is serviced on schedule and our regulators are not held together with hope. We keep groups small because the Marine Park is seven kilometres of coast shared by every dive centre in town, and a reef with six people on it is a better reef than one with twenty. We dive year-round. We say no when the wind says no.
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