Knafeh Straight Off the Tray
Second Circle, Jabal Amman, Amman
2 hours · by Sitti's Table
JOD 20
/ person

Jordanian food is not restaurant food. It is a tray of mansaf on the floor at two on a Friday, a bag of cucumbers from Souk el-Khodra, orange knafeh cut with a spatula and eaten standing up because sitting down would waste time. This chapter follows the day rather than the menu: something small at eleven, downtown on an empty stomach, then a household kitchen where the rice is measured by hand. Eat mansaf with your right hand. Say no three times before accepting a second helping - then accept.
Two hours, twenty dinars, orange cheese pastry straight off the tray at Second Circle. Start your appetite here.
Falafel, hummus, tamarind juice, sweets, in that order and on foot. Arrive hungry; three and a half hours.
Buy the aubergines first, cook them second. Maqluba is flipped at the table and the flip can fail.
The national dish on the day it is actually eaten. Six hours, jameed yoghurt, lamb, one hand only.
A rooftop under the Citadel, the call to prayer from four directions at once, supper served after dark.
Orjan's women's cooperatives make the olive oil soap and the biscuits. Village economics you can taste and carry home.
Two days is when you stop watching and start chopping. Six people maximum, and you leave with the recipes.